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Cultivation instructions for living willow cuttings and rods
For information on suitable sites, ground preparation, care of cuttings and rods, planting instructions, mulching, protection and maintenance for willow beds, living willow structures, windbreaks, fedges and sculptures please see below.
For further queries not covered please contact
Planting time
The willow rods and cuttings for living willow structures/beds are best planted in the early spring (February to March) when the soil is warming up and frosts are less likely to damage the new young growth. If planted during the colder winter months, the willow may be slower to root and the young growth damaged so severely it may not recover. In sheltered conditions earlier planting may be possible.
Choosing a suitable site
To establish good, long term growing conditions for your willow, whether it is to make a willow bed for harvesting or a living willow structure or sculpture, a well chosen and prepared site is essential.
A mainly sunny position is preferable, partially shaded for some of the day will not be too detrimental.
NB Take care to keep well away from buildings, walls, stonework, paving, ornamental ponds, drains and drainage systems.
Willow consumes vast amounts of water during the growing season and its roots will actively seek out water, undermining any obstacles in its way, subsequently causing damage en route.
Take heed, a 30 cms willow cutting of a vigorous variety, can if left to grow unchecked, grow into a massive tree within a few years!
A waterlogged soil is not a good growing environment for the young willow. Large established willow trees may have adapted to this environment, small saplings and cuttings may find the conditions hostile and fail to thrive.
Preparing the chosen site
Clear site of pernicious weeds and vigorous grasses well in advance either by carefully digging out unwanted plants and all their roots, or cover with a light obscuring membrane (black polythene matting or similar alternative) or kill off the weeds and grasses with a suitable weed killer.
Willow will tolerate most soil types, a good depth of top soil, moisture retentive and humus rich, is desirable. Double dig the site if necessary incorporating plenty of organic material, garden compost, well rotted farmyard or stable manure, willow is a voracious feeder!
Care of cuttings prior to planting
On receipt, remove cuttings from packaging, either place with bases in few cms of water in a cool, dark, airy and frost free place eg. shed or garage.
Or ‘heel in’ the cuttings (up to 20 cms depth) in moist sand or soil in a shady, frost free, sheltered area of the garden or as above in shed
Do not leave too long before planting. Willow roots very easily, long, fragile roots will form and will make planting more cumbersome. Instead of simply pushing the base of the cutting into the soil they will need a hole made with a dibber, then back filled with soil after placing in hole.
Care of rods, binders and weavers prior to planting
On receipt, release the ties holding the bundle, letting the air circulate round the willow lengths.
As with the cuttings above, place in bucket of water or ‘heel in’ the rods in damp soil.
Planting the cuttings and rods
Lay a water permeable ground cover membrane, black polythene sheeting or similar material to exclude light to prevent recurrence of weeds, over and beyond the boundaries of the site. Make sure the ground is thoroughly soaked through before laying the membrane, preferably wait until after the site has been drenched in rain.
Make holes with a pointed dibber at the appropriate planting distances (see below), push the cuttings through the holes into the soil, the pointed tips of the triangular buds should be heading towards the sky. Willow will root over the whole length so do not worry if you make a mistake and plant them upside down.
For 30 cms cuttings – planting depth 20 cms approx, for 60 cms – depth of 25-30 cms, for 90 cms – depth of 25-30 cms
For rods a planting depth of 40 – 60 cms is required depending on length, both for stability and to encourage a greater root forming area to sustain the growth of essentially a very ‘large cutting'.
Planting distances
This varies with the vigorousness of the variety used and type of structure or purpose intended.
For willow beds for harvesting plant cuttings 30-40 cms apart along row, 60 cms between rows
woven lattice willow fences / hedges plant 30 cms apart, single row
shelterbelts, windbreaks and screens plant 30 to 60 cms apart, 2 / 3 staggered rows, 60 cms between rows
Living willow structures planting distances as per instructions or as necessary to produce framework.
Mulching the planting site
If a membrane to keep weeds at bay is not used, a good thick mulch of compost, bark chippings or few cms of an alternative material will help retain moisture around the cuttings and help control the unwanted growth of pernicious weeds and vigorous grasses competing for the moisture in the soil. The new growth on the cuttings can be swamped by the stronger weeds, depriving them of moisture and obscuring light, causing failure to thrive.
Watering the cuttings
Willow consumes vast amounts of water, keep the site liberally watered, soil to remain damp at all times, particularly essential during the first year spring and summer months. The cuttings will not survive dry soil and drought conditions.
From the second year, with the climate changes and possibility of hot, dry summers, be vigilant. During prolonged dry spells in the spring and summer continue to keep the willow site well watered.
Protection from damage by animals
Grazing animals love the fresh, young willow shoots and bark. Rabbits, sheep, deer, hares and horses given the chance will destroy the young willow by grazing them down to the ground. Protect the taller cuttings with plastic tree guards or homemade equivalents, or if major problems with invaders, fence the site off during the first year or two until established.
Care of willow bed for harvesting withies and rods
The first years growth can be a little ‘spindly’, the root system is establishing itself in preference to shoot production.
Cut the first year growth down after leaf fall, from late November through to February, to establish stronger growth the following season.
If left, these rods will branch in their second season.
Subsequent years cut back annually, leaving 10-20cms or a few visible buds above ground level, for long, straight rods depending on variety.
Apply a thick mulch of compost, well rotted farmyard / stable manure or whatever organic material is available at least annually.
Care of willow for winter colour
Willow varieties also grown for winter colour of their bark, generally have a readily branching habit. Their growth should be left over winter to enjoy the display.
To retain the annual colourful show, cutting back half the saplings alternate years works well. The intensity of bark colour of these varieties can vary with the
soil type and position of the site, particularly level of exposure to sun.
Apply a thick mulch of compost, well rotted farmyard / stable manure or whatever organic material is available at least annually.
Care of living willow structures and sculptures
It is essential to control growth of vigorous grasses and pernicious weeds round the growing area, to prevent competition for moisture, particularly in spring and summer. As the willow buds produce shoots, these can either be periodically cut back encouraging denser growth or if long enough, woven into the framework.
Apply a thick mulch of compost, well rotted farmyard / stable manure or whatever organic material is available at least annually.
Care of living willow ‘fedges’, shelterbelts, windbreaks, screens
It is essential to control growth of vigorous grasses and pernicious weeds round the growing area, to prevent competition for moisture, particularly in spring and
summer. Apply a thick mulch of compost, well rotted farmyard / stable manure or whatever organic material is available at least annually.
Long term
The willow takes a couple of years to establish. On a well positioned site with good growing conditions the vigorous varieties can produce rods of up to 3m and way beyond annually.
NB If a willow bed is not harvested annually, very tall trees can grow in a short space of time. Similarly, if a willow structure is not annually maintained by pruning and cutting back, an 'interesting' group of trees can materialise.
So beware!
Good planting and good luck!
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Preservation of dried willow structures and sculptures
Willow is biodegradable within a few years if left outside exposed to the elements all year round. The life span of a dried willow structure or sculpture left outdoors can be increased by an annual application of wood preservative.
The willow must be thoroughly dry before treatment. A newly made structure using green willow will need to be left to dry naturally from a few weeks to months depending on prevailing weather conditions, before its first application of preservative. A change in colour will be evident as it dries out.
The following preservatives are recommended:
If plants and trees are in contact with the structure, choose a preservative recommended as harmless to plants. Various brands are readily available at DIY stores and garden centres. Usually colourless and odourless, easy to apply by brush.
A creosote substitute can also be used with care in situations where there is no likely contact with plants and trees, it is not plant friendly. Creosote substitute has a strong, lingering odour lasting from a few days to weeks, stains the structure brown and is messy to apply by brush.
The base of the structure in contact with the soil can be soaked in the chosen preservative for a few hours for added protection. Siting the base on a bed of gravel or free draining soil (well dug and with added gravel) is also beneficial in helping to preserve its life span.
NB Please read carefully and follow the manufacturer's safety procedures and application instructions for all types of preservative and creosote substitute used.
The traditional method of preservation is to use a mixture of boiled linseed oil and traditional turpentine in the ratio 50:50
Lightly brush or paint the willow, repeat the application annually.
Alternatively use a mixture of 3 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part white spirit. Again lightly brush or paint the willow, repeat the application annually.
These two methods are recommended for indoor willow art and sculptures.
Placing the sculpture under cover in dry, airy surroundings during the wettest months of the year (if not in use or required for display) will prolong its life span.
Alternatively the basic shape of a dried willow sculpture can be preserved by
allowing a slow growing willow species, branching shrub or climbing plant (preferably nothing too vigorous so as not to swamp the framework) to scramble through and over it. This will require maintenance by regular
clipping and pruning of the growth back to the sculpture framework.
The outline of the sculpture will be preserved by the growing plant after the original willow has partially succumbed to nature and the elements.
© Christine Baker - The Dancing Trees - 2009 - All rights reserved
Contact details for the Dancing Trees
Christine Baker,
Brooke Court, Brooke, Oakham, Rutland LE15 8DE
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